We had a first today on the site. It’s been about five years and John, the builder of Toby’s car and my car, has never made a post or a comment but it seems the lure of 67mustangblog was too much. John has come out of the wood work and answered some of the questions I lots of people ask me.
John posted some comments in this post. However I’ll repost it here:
“Hi everyone,
I am the poor bugger who has the job of putting these together. 
The kit for both Toby’s and Cam’s cars came from Prototype Plus in Melbourne and are a nice kit, but you will still need to do a LOT of fitting and mucking about if you want everything perfect. If you want more info, just let me know. The kit is much better than any of the US kits and works out cheaper. On both Cam’s and Toby’s we have used Fibreglass front fenders which are made by the same guy and look a lot better than the original fenders with the flare glued on. If you would like more info on any of the products or the how’s, I may be able to put something together for Cam to post up. As long as it doesn’t take me away from the job at hand.
Now, in regards to RRS. Yes, they have had some supply issues and are working very hard to fix these problems. I have had a few problems along the way as well, but they have been very helpful in fixing any problems as soon as they are able. They have also been outstanding in providing product backup and technical help when needed.
You will find that if you know how to handle a spanner you shouldn’t have any troubles fitting the gear yourself. I have fitted a fair bit of RRS gear to Mustangs now and find that it does improve the driving experience of these older style vehicle. We do need to have some patients with these guys as the product they supply is pretty much all that is available. They have done the hard yards in regards to ADRs and making the fitting of the products less of a headache when it comes to having engineering/compliance done on the vehicles. Almost all of the available products from overseas will not pass ADRs here and will cause major headaches. I speak from experience.
By the way, I am in no way connected with RRS other than having used their products. I think that they are working pretty hard to improve the problems that they have had in the past and I am confident that they will continue to supply A1 products that will help us improve and enjoy these vehicles well into the future.
Anyway – if anyone has any questions just let Cam know so he can pass them on.
Oh, btw guys. Give us some feedback on the grilles, do you think that the spacers should be painted Black to hide them a little better????”
So there you go. If you have any comments or more questions please post them in a comment below. John constantly reads the site.
© 2009 – 2012, 67mustangblog. All rights reserved.
Thanks for this post, it’s great !
With regards to the body kit, I find myself struggling to find any info regarding Prototype plus. Any website you could give us and a price etc ?
Besides RRS, TCP seems to be doing some good stuff as well, do you have any experience with them ?
And finally the grills, yes I believe a little hiding of the spacers could only do good to the look of it !
Regards from France
I agree that painting the spacers black would make the grilles look even better then they do now. I know that The Muscle Car Factory in Melbourne is now selling TCP stuff here in Australia so can only imagine they’ve got the ADR stuff sorted as well.
Prototypes Plus sell stuff on ebay as well -the kit itself is around $5k. Steve is the guy who runs it and has had my car in his shop for a while test fitting and re-moulding certain bits to ensure that his lastest parts fit well on an actual car. He is in Carrum Downs Victoria and is improving his kits all the time.
Any chance you can give us his contact details to get in touch ?
Many thanks
Prototypes Plus
(03) 9775 0566
Contact is Steve.
Thanks for the contact details Awright. I have Steve’s email address as well but I will have to dig it up. His kits would be about the only one I would use for the job now, and the Glass front fenders make life a lot easier as well. And look a lot neater too.
Just remember that no two cars are the same and there is still a lot of work in fitting the kits.
OH, I will retrofit the grilles with some black spaces in the next week or so to see how they look.
I will have to look into the TCP products as well. They were never ADRed here so it will be interesting to find out some more about this mob in Melbourne. TCP are a nice product but there is quite a lot more work involved to install this gear into a car, a lot more than the RRS at least. That is unless they have chanced the design. The reason that the TCP front end did not pass ADRs was due to the fact that it required a lot of chassis cutting and mods to fit it, not really a job even for a handy man. It had to be done by someone who knew what they were doing.
Hey guys a bit off topic but what are peoples thoughts on the RHD shells made by dynacorn that RRS can supply, are they a good idea as a starting point for an eleanor build or are you better off getting an old A or C code and doing all the repairs and RHD conversion to it?
cheers
Seven.
Remember and old car is just that , The new shells are thicker and reinforced in all the areas prone to weakness. A factory RHD is the only way to go , the Dynacorn shells take forever to get here but are worth it , no rust or panel repairs, notched strut guards ready to take wider motors and if you go with RRS they are currently organising all the engineering to make it easier to register a new car. A new bodied car has got to be more desirable for true collectors of fine cars. Mate do your homework but all roads lead back to New RHD shells.
Sure it is a good thing to start off with a new shell, and you could very well be saving quite a lot on metal work and stuff BUT it does cost quite a lot for just a “starting point”. Now if you decide to replace every single bit of the car and have the budget for it, why not !
Hi peoples,
ive got the Prototypes Plus bodykit, but am having problems finding or even deciding what lights+buckets to fit to the body kit… Steve seems to be either so overworked, or completely non-comital on telling me what size lights i need and where i can get the right sized light buckets… does anyone have recommendations for this bodykit?
I was looking at the Aeroform parts, but those are 7″ brackets, and i got an old 7″ light, and there is NO way it will fit the Prototypes Plus bodykit.
And in the instructions for the bodykit is specifies 5″ lights – yet i have a 4 and 6/8inch light and its SO loose as a goose!!
I think the instructions are meant to be 5 and 3/4inch… can someone verifiy this (and not on your shelby knowledge!), as Steve wont say anything about the ‘actual’ size.
Again, any help on where to get the correct sized bukets and lights would be awesome!!!!!!!!!!!
post here, or email me at tbk_cc@yahoo.com
Regards Chris.
Hi Chris,
Mate I know how you feel as i went through this too. And now re-reading it all I’m starting to worry again and am more confused.
Basically My builder assured me he could fit my 7″ headlights into the prototype kit I have. Though there was no way to mount them so i bought these.
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=EHB67+01
Here is the posts I made on the subject.
http://67mustangblog.com/2008/01/new-order-eleanor-headlight-buckets-and-shelby-valve-covers/
But as I’m not with my car It’s really a waiting game for me until my builder gets up to the lights…I’ve spent quite a deal of cash on some custom bixenons in a 7″ housing.. so id hate to have to get them redone in 5 3/4
let me know how you go.
Hi Chris,
Mate we are having the same problems with the body kit. We bought the Aeroform bracket kit, but we still had to make some mods.
That goes the same for the other small light kit from PIAA that I bought from the USA they are to small to fit the holes (panelbeater has the shits with me) as he has to make more changes.
you know you can fix that problem dont use cheap ass aeroform im just sayin you can do better then aeroform i mean if you want to go the cheap way then i think your on the right track..
William,
What would you suggest?
the most original kit being cinema vehicle services who made the movie cars only 150 of these were made worldwide coming with certificate of authenticity only chance of one of these kits would be on ebay being someone who never got around to fitting it understanding that these were still a job to fit as they were never intended to be on the street!!
Hi Guys, thanks for all the replies.
Steve from Prototypes Plus seemed to be confident about 7″ working Cameron (though i can see cutting up the fibre glass would be required to make it happen).
To date, what ive done is ordered some 5 3/4 inch NARVA Headlamp Housings (part number 72186) from Repco (http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/housings).
Please be aware i dont know if this is the right thing to get, but once they arive i will have a play and discuss my findings here…
Regards,
Chris
That link is a bit stuffed up, try this;
http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/housings
Hi Guy’s
Tried the 5 3/4 inch they look to small when you sit them in place. What we are doing is using is the 7 inch buckets from aeroform and fitting them from behind. Buckets still had to be modified I can send photo’s if you want.
Thanks
Rod
Guys,
Send photos or whatever you have to 67mustangblog@gmail.com I can post it up and we can get to the bottom of this. As I said im not much help without my car with me.
Hey peoples,
I got those 5 3/4 inch NARVA headlight housings as posted above, and well they dont fit…
I kinda see what Rod says about the size, but without a 5 3/4 inch light im not 100% commited to his comments just yet.
Theyve got metal tabs and screws hanging all over the place and so they dont fit correctly with the kit… The 3 screw tabs are “pretty close” to being correctly positioned but its going to need work regardless.
Its not like NARVA have advertised this as a Eleanor part anyway.
Im thinking a dremal tool will help do the job, but its going to be custom work on each side until it fits correctly
I will mock up the 7″ light tonight and decide which way i want to go… and without looking at it right now im sure the 7″ was just too big for the kit?? But maybe chopping the rear part of the cone is the ticket to fitting 7′s ???
Or are you “7″ people just chopping out the entire cone and mounting the light (aeoroform kit, light etc) to the fender and the light simply sticks through the upper valance???
Thanks for your opinions and information..
Chris
Serious guys… i dont understand how you’ll get 7″ headlights in… im tempted to say you’re trying to redefine the laws of physics LOL
You must be doing huge mods to the fibreglass? like chopping it up?
Even if you cut the fibreglass cone out compltetly and got the whole thing (mount+light+bucket) behind the fibreglass hole… surely you’ll only see 6/8′s of the actual light…right???
Or have i missed something?
Thanks guys
Chris
Ok… i think i’ve worked it out… i found an old 68 mustang headlight surround (7″ of course) and i put it over the back of the fibreglass cone… so what im thinking is you guys that want the 7″ lights will just dremel out that part of the cone. I think i also worked out that the headlight doesnt attach to the fibreglass kit, but rather mounts directly onto the body of the donor mustang… and the stainless headlight retainer and the lens would sit just proud of the hole in the fibreglass body kit… can someone confirm this please!
Also if this is correct, do you plan to allow the upper valance (the headlight part of the body kit) to be removable so you can access the len’s? Or do you plan to only allow this from the rear (inside the wheel well)??
Thanks ppls
Regards,
Chris
Hi guys,
Thanks for all the great info! Just wondering if Prototype Plus is still producing the eleanor bodykit. Seems like the hood from Prototype Plus is spot on with CVS (the original/movie correct) hood.
Thanks in advance.
J.